The ascent of Mont Harfang marked the halfway point of our trip and strengthened the bonds of our group. After a long, difficult climb, we were rewarded with a breathtaking view, an incredible moment after our first night in a tent on a starry, freezing night.
The summit
From the top of Mont Harfang, at an altitude of 960 metres, there are incredible views on both sides. Opposite us, the Manicouagan Reservoir glitters with a thousand lights. The white of the snow shines so brightly in the sunlight that it seems as if its spruce-filled islands seem to rise out of the fog. Even from our high vantage point, we can only see a small part of the ‘Eye of Quebec’, the nickname of the gigantic Manicouagan Reservoir, an immense, almost perfect circle created millions of years ago by the impact of a meteorite.
To the left, more of the Mont Groulx mountains, their white, rocky peaks rising out of the forest. So, on one side, the landscape, and on the other, the delighted and amazed faces of 16 climbers, bathed in the last rays of sunshine before the clouds move in. For months we’d been preparing for this expedition, the name of Mont Harfang echoing in our minds. Today we met it, almost thirty years after the founding of The Tip of the Toes Foundation, whose first expedition took place here…
The ascent
We walked in single file, snowshoes on our feet, down the snowy path. At first, the trail looks like it has been made by other visitors, but soon it disappears under the fresh snow. We take turns leading the way, literally blazing a trail with our snowshoes. Sometimes the snow gives way under our feet, and we sink deep into the powder. You then have to dig to retrieve your buried snowshoe. Sometimes the slope is too steep. You have to hit it with the front of your snowshoe to try and anchor yourself in the snow and push on your poles. Nobody escapes falls and slips, even the most experienced hikers like Mario.
The group moves forward as one, each waiting for the next, each worrying about rhythm and pace. In five days, all the members of the expedition are so united that no one sees any point in trying to go faster than the others. The effort is sustained. We have to take it one step at a time, not break a sweat and, above not forget to enjoy the forest scenery all around us! A special mention goes to Emma and Chandra, who showed admirable stamina and motivation in the face of the difficulties of the climb.
On the way down, we ate up the kilometres so hard won on the way up. While some of the more experienced hikers demonstrated their descent technique by gracefully bending their knees, most of us descended on our bottoms for long stretches, laughing out loud.
First night
We arrived at our base camp just before dark, in time for our nightly routine. First, we take care of our wet and snowy feet: change socks, put on mouflons (outdoor slippers for the snow) and booties. Then we put on our winter pants and coat. We lay out our sleeping mat, inflate our mattress and unroll our sleeping bag. Then, after dinner, it’s time for the pre-sleep routine: put on our fleece clothes for the night, our thickest socks, our most comfortable toque… and our earplugs for the snoring symphony!
For many, the first night of winter camping wasn’t the easiest. The cold (almost -30!) and the discomfort did not let us rest: “my zipper was blocked by the cold,” recalls Aurélie. Gabrielle had to change tents during the night to get closer to the stove, and Vincent took a long time to get warm when he woke up. Others, of course, slept like babies. But in the early hours, in the mist and steam of frozen breath, you could feel everyone’s pride in having gone through this ordeal together and getting to know each other a little better.
Valérian Mazataud, volunteer photographer and blogger for the On the Tip of the Toes Foundation
Translated by Lorraine Gagnon
In pictures
